Digital analogue photography

Zenza Bronica ETRSi (image by Kurt)

It's the fault of my father.
He endowed me a complete Zenza Bronica ETRSi Set...

So i started to remember the good old times - more than 20 years ago - when i shot B&W photos, developed them and enlarged them in the darkroom. I also started to remember the way of shooting: Every push of the button was well thought (mostly), no instant feedback and the magic of an image evolving from a lifeless piece of cellophane...
Hmm, i think i'm getting old...

Anyway - last weekend i started to reactivate the easier parts of this flashback, bought some rolls of Ilford HP5 and Delta 100 film, a Jobo tank and a Canon 8800F scanner to spare the pain of setting up a complete darkroom. (*1)

The Canon 8800F acts as a bridge between "old style" film photography and the digital world:

• The scanner is the most cost efficient way to scan 120 film. It can process one strip at a time with 4 pcs. of 6x4.5 cm negatives.
• The data sheet says, that it can scan up to 4800x9600 dpi - but even 2400dpi seem to stress the max. optical resolution of the scanner. Don't be tempted to compare it with a Nikon Coolscan with ~3800 dpi of true optical resolution ;-)
  Still, it is good enough for 645 as you'll get ~5 MPix at 1200 dpi and ~20 MPix at 2400 dpi
  
• The good thing about this scanner is the quite high dynamic range it can capture. In most cases, you don't need multi-pass scanning to get a usable image from the negative.
  
• Among other software, there is also a copy of Silverfast included in the package. Although the software is a little clumsy to use, it is worth the extra effort as it will deliver high quality images without having to immerse yourself deeply in the art of film scanning.
  
  
  Wolfgang - The Finez
  Ilford HP5+, Ilfosol 3 14+1, Canon 8800F@1200 dpi
  

(*1) If you also want to (re-)start with medium format film, here's my shopping list for developing roll film negatives:

1. Jobo tank system 1500:
   
   • Tank - Item #1520 (tank complete with one reel)
   • Film washer "Cascade" Item #3350
   • Film wiper Item #3530
   • Film clips Item #3312
   • Bottles for chemicals, eg. Item #3380 or 2-3 bottles Item #3395
   • Graduate Item #3306
   • Thermometer, eg. Item #3322
   Price should not exceed 200 EUR for all items.
   
   
2. Changing bag - e.g. Kaiser Wechselsack, ~32 EUR
   
   
3. B&W film and chemicals:
   
   • Ilford HP5 or Delta 100, ~4 EUR/Roll
   • Developer: Ilford Ilfosol 3 (for Ilford HP5), ~10 EUR/500ml
   • Fixer: Ilford Rapid Fixer, ~8 EUR/500 ml
   • Misc: Stop bath and wetting agent, ~8 EUR/500 ml each (i personally prefer to rinse the tank instead of using a stop bath)
   Don't forget that the chemicals are hazardous waste. While the developer has chemical similarities to a washing agent, the fixer will cause mass mortality in your local sewage plant if you simply pour it in the kitchen sink...

Zenitar Fisheye 16mm f2.8

At last, my new Zenitar lens arrived. After waiting one month and paying off the minister of finance with additional 70 EUR, i have a full frame fisheye lens for my Nikon and M42 mount cameras.
The lens offers good value for the money, but you have to bring some things into order before using it the first time:

• Clean the lens from grinding swarf. Don't forget it's Russian: high quality build, but apparently no final inspection before leaving the factory ;-)
• Mount the adapter for non-M42 cameras.
• Adjust focus ring for infinity on non-M42 cameras.

So, here is a tutorial how to adjust your Zenitar 16mm fisheye and prepare it for first use.

Caution: Work gently, do not force anything. If you use compressed air, keep some centimeters distance and avoid blowing at full power. Do not tighten the screws forcfully. The next grade after "tight" is "broken"!
Please don't forget that you will do the following steps at your own risk! Don't come wailing to me, complaining that you have ruined your lens!

What you need:

• A set of of small screwdrivers
• Bottle of compressed air
  

Cleaning the lens from grinding swarf
- First, you have to open the rearward mounting plate of the lens. Set aperture to f22. Remove the 3 screws and lift the plate
- Use adequate compressed air to remove the swarf. Blow into the side of the lens stack to remove particles that already rest on the lens surfaces.
- Re-mount the plate. Take care to mount it accordingly, otherwise the lens diaphragm won't work. See below for correct position. The clip must extend into the lens on the right side of the pin. Carefully rotate the plate clockwise until the screw holes match. If you do it correctly, you can see the diaphragm opening while turning the plate into position.
- Re-apply the screws.
- Now unscrew the front part of the lens and clean the inside with compressed air.
- Re-mount the the front part.


Mounting the adapter (Nikon)
There is a red dot on both sides of the adapter which has to align with the focus mark on the lens:

Screw in the adapter - then unscrew counterclockwise a few degrees until the marks align:
Fasten the small screw on the adapter to fix this position:

Adjust focus ring for infinity
- Set focus to infinity
- Now you have to move the focus rubber ring away from its position. That's best done with your fingernails and a little cautious force:
- This will reveal 3 holes with hidden screws. Loosen the screws (approx. one turn will be sufficient).
- Move the focus ring approx 2 degrees clockwise. In my example, i have selected the middle position between infinity and 1.2 meters. This should give enough headroom to focus even beyond infinity.
- Now carefully tighten the 3 screws, mount the lens on the camera and use a feature far away to focus to infinity. Use a piece of tape to fix the ring in this position and re-open the 3 screws.
- Remove the piece of tape. Align the focus marker and the infinity symbol and re-tighten the screws.

Now you're done! Enjoy your new Zenitar!

One downer at the end of the tutorial: On my Pentax ESII, for an unkown reason, the Zenitar sometimes blocks the shutter. I suspect, the rear filter housing extends too far into the camera and blocks the mirror. Unfortunately, the filter housing cannot be removed as it is part of the optical system of the lens. Any tipps how to circumvent this problem would be greatly appreciated....

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